Whirlpool Washer Lo FL Error

Whirlpool WFW6620HW1

If both the hot and cold water valves are working as you say then the only thing I can imagine that would be cauing the problem you describe is the water level pressure sensor sticking after the initial fill. After the initial fill the pressure sensor sticks so even though it's empty after it drains on the next cycle the sensor is telling the control the washer still has water in it so it's going on with the cycle as if it still has a tub full of water which is why it don't refill and also why it wont' spin. The control will not allow the washer to spin if the sensor is telling the control the tub still has water in it. So replace the pressure sensor. The sensor you need for that model is linked below.

https://prismparts.com/products/washer-water-level-pressure-switch-part-number-rp0205386paz99

I has checked both inlet hoses and water supply, and everything is in order to work properly. Washer: Whirlpool Mod. WTW6120HW0 SER CX3101355

You will need to replace the water inlet valve. Those models are notorius for the valve going bad because it has a built in thermistor/sensor that goes bad in it and when that sensor goes bad it stops the valve from working even if the solenoids on the valve are good. The valve you need is linked below.

https://prismparts.com/products/whirlpool-washer-water-inlet-valve-assembly-pp4459236?_pos=1&_sid=efdd81671&_ss=r

I have a Maytag Model# MHW5630HW0 that is now two years old. Lo FL error code shows up on hot and cold cycles, but not every time. Prior to the error message, the water inlet valves will usually make two audible clicks as the machine starts the cycle. After the machine completes "sensing", the valves will make a quiet buzzing sound. I can also hear a quiet hiss of flowing water at the valves, however there is no water coming through them because there is no water entering the soap dispenser. This will result in the Lo FL error code. Sometimes, after clearing the code and restarting the machine, both the valves will operate allowing water in and the machine will complete a full cycle. However, the next cycle will usually result in a Lo FL error. I have checked the inlet screens, hoses, and water pressure. All seem to be just fine. I have also checked the hot water valve for continuity which resulted in resistance of 800+ Ohms. I have now ordered two replacement valves, but am afraid that the fact that the current valves do seem to operate normally (although inconsistently) and have continuity, that the problem may reside in the signals they are receiving from the control board. Any thoughts on this idea? Hopeful that the replacement valves will fix the issue!

I would have to agree that it sounds like a low voltage issue to the valve from the control board. Unfortunatley the board for that model is hard to find in stock anywhere and if you happen to it's expensive enough that buying a new washer makes more sense. The part number for the board is W11322901. 

I get this error code at about 10 minutes into the normal wash cycle. The hoses are not kinked, the tapes are on, and the water pressure is great. I get this error on either a hot, cold, or warm cycle. I have replaced the hot inlet valve, and the pressure switch. What next?

You replace the wrong valve. The hot water valve even on hot still mixes with the cold so it sounds like one one of the solenoids on the cold valve is out or at leat not opening all the way and is sticking. The valve you need to replace is linked below.

https://prismparts.com/products/whirlpool-washer-water-inlet-valve-assembly-pp7375386?_pos=1&_sid=78afe1b44&_ss=r

Hi, My washer can do only quick cycle, all other cycles it shows low FL and stops It may be second submission as I did not get any reply,

You did not supply your model number, questions without model numbers do not get responded to. Please submit a new question with your full model number.

I have a whirlpool washer model WFW75HEFW. Its giving me the Lo Flo error code. The is locked. And won't open. How do I clear the Lo Flo error code. To unlock the washer door. I've tried unplugging for a few minutes and I've shut off the power from the breaker. But those methods didn't work. Is there anything else I can try.

It sounds to me like its in a no water error mode. When you start a cycle on that model, and there is no water pressure or water pressure cuts off during the cycle, it goes into a no water error mode, causing the unit to run through an 8-minute reset mode, and all that will happen is the pump will run. The door will remain locked until after the 8-minute error cycle has completed. Once there error cycle ends, the door will unlock on its own, and the unit will reset. Still, you have to let it complete the full error cycle uninterrupted. If you stop it or unplug it during this error cycle, it will only reset the error it will not reset until you let it run the full 8-minute error cycle.
So just plug it in and don't touch anything for 8 full minutes and it should reset on it's own. 

Can I manually add water before the wash cycle to bypass the LOFL error code until I get a chance to get a technician out to fix the real problem?

No because it will just error out in the rinse cycle when no waters enters on rinse.

Hi, Model: WTW8000DN5 LF code comes on and only some water is getting in. I checked the hoses and there is plenty of pressure. nothing is pinched. Nothing looks clogged from bib. Please help, Thanks

You need to replace the water inlet valve on the washer, Lf means Long Fill which means its taking too long for the washer to fill with water so if you have the proper water pressure to the machine then the valve is the problem. The valve you need for your model is linked below:

https://prismparts.com/products/whirlpool-washer-water-inlet-valve-assembly-pp4459236?_pos=1&_sid=1e68104c1&_ss=r

Hi, my washer keeps giving the lf code. I’ve replaced the water level pressure switch, the water inlet value, new water hoses, checked the screens- all good, The drain should be working fine- 39” high drain hose with only 4” in drain receptacle. I’ve noticed the boot seal is leaking water out the front- could this be the problem? I don’t want to buy this part if the error code is coming from some other very expensive part. Thanks!

The boot seal leaking is not enough of a leak to cause a LF error it would have to be leaking at a faster rate than the washer can fill for a leak to cause that error. If you have replaced all the parts you say you have and still get the LF error and you are certain you have proper water pressure to the machine then the main control is bad. You did not give us your model number but some models do have a flow meter if yours has a flow meter then that is the problem. 

The repair man could not figure it out - $99 for nothing. He thought it was the soap dispenser leaking so I went through the test he asked and that was to put water in the dispenser until it washed with clear water. No soap, plenty of water and goes to LO FL withing 10-15 minutes and starts to drain. I checked the inlet valves just in case....they are clear with a little discoloration on the bottom of the filter plastic and of course...water is getting in the tub. ??

You need to replace the inlet valve one of the valves is sticking allowing water to drip in the unit and not allowing out fast enough to satisfy the control which is why you are getting the low flow error.

Ok so the washer is saying Lo Flo but won’t allow me to shut it off while I figure the issue out so the question is how do I just shut the washer off so the door unlock

Unplug the washer for 2 full minutes or kill power to it at the breaker and that should reset the board and allow the door to unlock if the drain pump comes on after restoring power give it time to drain and just let the drain pump run, once it stops running if it does the door will unlock.